This isn't a dry history book. It's Jane Dieulafoy's personal diary of a wild, year-long expedition from 1881 to 1882. She and her engineer husband, Marcel, received funding from the French government to go find and document ancient Persian ruins, with their eyes on the legendary sites of Susa.

The Story

The book follows their journey from France, across the Ottoman Empire, and into the heart of Persia. Jane writes about everything: the exhausting travel by carriage and horseback, bargaining with local guides, and setting up camp in remote areas. The big goal was Susa, a city mentioned in the Bible, which was just a giant, forgotten mound of earth. We see them start digging, finding broken pottery, intricate brickwork, and eventually monumental sculptures. But the story is just as much about the people they meet—from wary village heads to curious onlookers—and the constant challenges of disease, unreliable supplies, and the sheer physical labor of excavation in the desert heat.

Why You Should Read It

You should read it for Jane's voice. She's witty, sharp, and utterly fearless. Her descriptions make you feel the grit of the desert and the thrill of brushing dirt off a carving no one has seen for 2,000 years. The most fascinating part is her perspective as a woman in disguise. She doesn't dwell on it melodramatically, but her casual mentions of the freedom it granted her—to ride astride, to enter male spaces, to be taken seriously as part of the team—speak volumes about her character. It adds a layer of tension and quiet rebellion to every interaction.

Final Verdict

Perfect for anyone who loves true adventure stories, armchair travel, or hidden histories. If you enjoy tales of people who broke barriers to follow their passion, you'll find a kindred spirit in Jane Dieulafoy. It’s also a great pick for readers curious about the early, messy, and deeply personal days of archaeology, long before it became a polished science. Just be warned: it might give you a serious case of wanderlust.